In the Kitchen

If it’s anything to go by, the kitchen-side banter immediately suggests that Louis is happily settling into his new role of Head Chef at the Hawkley Inn. It helps that he’s no stranger to the pub, having popped in on many a Tuesday night to enjoy The Hawkley’s iconic steak night. We sit down to chat and I wonder what changes he’ll look to make as chef’s notoriously like to make their mark. 

I’m pleasantly surprised as I immediately quiz him on this. It’s obvious that he’s got his own ideas, but is conscious to not disrupt the flow. “Steak night is great – it’s a keeper. I’m just looking at introducing a few more cuts, more choice – some cheaper cuts and some punchier ones”. Meat is clearly something that Louis is passionate about.  He works for a butcher on a Monday, allowing him to hand select his cuts. “I can see and feel the quality. I pick exactly what I want for the week ahead”.  On the subject of meat, The Hawkley is also the butcher’s biggest buyer of bones, taking delivery of 100kg a week.  It seems that Louis takes his gravy very seriously. Made from scratch, the process starts on a Tuesday and is ready in time for Sunday service. That’s another thing that he clearly takes great pride in – the perfect roast lunch. All this carnivore talk and he’s quick to tell me that there are plenty of options for the non-meat eater amongst us!

This attention to detail and hands on approach to the food journey is an area that appears to be very much on his radar. Authentically delivering on what you say is obviously important, yet he feels that many still don’t quite live up to their promise. “I’ve worked in places that pride themselves on all organic, sustainable produce and processes and yet there’s not even a recycling bin in sight.” It seems that his motto is ‘do as you say’.  There’s a single-mindedness to Louis. It’s clear that he’s not trying to be all things to all people, but instead is focusing on authentically delivering on an ethos of fresh, quality food at a fair price.  “From my days at Pulpo Negro, I admired the razor sharp focus of Andres. He decided what to do and did it. No distractions, no deviations. And it worked.”

Hawkley regulars will probably have noticed that there have been some changes to the menu.  Notably a trimming down of choices. This is all part of the master plan to truly be able to deliver against the promise of ‘fresh, quality food’. A freezer rejector, Louis doesn’t want to sacrifice on ‘fresh’ purely to allow the delivery of more options on the menu. “It’s impossible to have 10 mains on and they all be freshly cooked. I want to deliver less, but better.”

The Hawkley uses local suppliers and none of this changes with Louis heading up the kitchen.  Seasonal is clearly important to Louis too as the customer’s avid need for every type of fruit and veg, year-round, clearly strikes a nerve. It is true – we’ve certainly fiddled with availability of produce  and inadvertently made today’s customer more demanding than ever before. Clearly there are some things that do always need to come from afar, but it’s encouraging to see someone taking a stance. “With the warmer weather, Zoe is keen to have some lighter desserts on the menu.  I can’t wait for all the English fruit to come through.” 

As we wrap up, we ponder the rather challenged food scene in the area. “There are some interesting places trying interesting things, but it’s clear that there’s an appetite for more”. From hearing what’s in store this summer, it’s obvious that The Hawkley Inn is poised to take up the challenge.